Scenic Cambodian Countryside and a Visit to a Pagoda..

A few months back, Ma, my mother-in-law asked us if we wanted to go to a pagoda to get a monk’s blessings for the coming new year. Though, I am not Buddhist, I would usually come as a sign of respect and also so I could observe and learn closely their customs and traditions. After all, my husband is a Buddhist and its a big factor for both of us to understand each other’s religion.

Anyway, the trip promised to be scenic as the pagoda is located somewhere in Kampong Chhanang. The day started really early and at 6 am we were already on a tuk-tuk speeding towards Sisowath Quay near the riverside and going towards National Road No. 5. This was my first time to take a really long ride in a tuk-tuk. Ma and Hi-ace says its the best way to go, we get to enjoy the breeze and take in as much scenery as we want to. The price of the round trip ride on the tuk-tuk was unbelievably just $8!! I really am seriously in awe of Ma’s bargaining abilities.

So, it was me, Hi-ace, Chinks, our nieces Sokna and Cheng and Ma in the tuk-tuk.. The ride was really so enjoyable and I almost fell asleep being lulled by the wind and the not so bumpy ride. We had been traveling for about an hour when we turned left (lol! don’t ask me where..) towards a small market then onwards. The road became smaller and unpaved and both sides mostly lower with lots of water and some houses on stilts. We stopped for a bit to buy some lotus seeds (Ma and the nieces loves snacking on these..) and also some lotus flowers to offer in the pagoda.

The views were absolutely fantastic and so rural.. Then we reached a place with lots of cows being herded we turned right, then suddenly there was a bang! We had a flat tire and it was in the middle of nowhere, with nothing but the cows, ponds, lotus flowers and rice fields. The nice tuk-tuk driver told us to wait by the roadside and he’ll go look for a vulcanizing shop. So then, we proceeded to occupy ourselves by taking photos of ourselves and the stunning rural landscape.

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My Khmer Coffee Addiction

It’s a fact. I’m addicted to it. I can’t start a day without coffee and I usually have it a couple more times each day. When I first visited Phnom Penh last 2004, I was fretting and thinking that maybe I’ll be on a coffee-diet. Lol! I was really really wrong! I discovered that Cambodians are more than passionate about their morning cup. In fact, they have coffee anytime of the the day!

A few doors down my mother-in-laws house in Toul Tompoung area, there is a Khmer restaurant (corner resto St. 432 and 163) serving espressos and iced coffees at a fraction of the price of famous coffee houses. And the taste? Whew! One of the best brews I’ve ever had. Not only that, I was amazed to find out  that most of these local cafe’s roast their own local beans so you get freshly roasted coffee which, believe me has the best taste. Khmers prefer their beans roasted really black and adds a little fat or butter making the taste a lot richer. They would usually roast their beans every other day around 2-3 pm and just the aroma is heavenly!

So, though I still frequent nice cafes around Phnom Penh (I do enjoy their plush seats, free wifi, pastries..) but every so often you can find me sampling coffee from these small restaurants found all over Phnom Penh. These shops mostly speak very little English so come prepared and have this memorized (lol! I even have a small note always with me with Khmer translation of this just in case..)

• hot black coffee – caa-fei kh’mav (khdow -hot)
• coffee – caa-fei
• iced coffee – caa-fei teuk koh
• ice coffee milk – caa-fei teuk koh tuk duh koh

Khmer coffee is usually served hot – black or with milk / iced – black or with milk. There’s also a place inside Russian Market (Tuol Tompoung Market) serving what they claim to be the Best Iced Coffee in Phnom Penh. It does taste really good, and since there are a lot of tourists in the market they can speak English, so ordering a glass of iced coffee is a breeze.

It’s located right in the food hall, just look for the sign..

And to tempt those iced coffee lovers..

I’ve already shared this passion for Khmer coffee to some of my friends and also my sister. Ouwie is now also a certified Khmer coffee addict. Lol ! I can still remembered when she first tried it, she found it so good, she had too many glasses and found herself unable to sleep and was looking for natural sleep aids. So, though its tastes really good, just have it in moderation

Happy coffee drinking!

There’s a Mine!

Cambodia is the Land of Mines.. See I saw this sign in an internet shop here in Phnom Penh..

Lol! The ceiling was low and the sign was just a kind warning. I’ve now decided to be on the constant lookout for funny signs like this, uniquely Khmer!

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Ouwie’s Intro To Phnom Penh..

My siste, Ouwie arrived Wednesday evening from Manila. She’s planning on staying here for sometime, an extended vacation maybe and to also check out if she could work here.. Anyway, after she had a good night rest after arriving, we have all started orienting her to all things Khmer.

Living in Cambodia is quite easy and exciting too and now Ouwie is finding that out. We all consider it an everyday adventure just discovering things about Cambodia culture. So, Chinks have started teaching her some really basic Khmer language, like numbers, how to ask ‘how much’ etc..

We spent a good part of Thursday afternoon orienting her to the traffic and some landmarks around Phnom Penh. We went first to Tuol Tompoung Market to shop for some silk scarves and slippers then we walked around the Royal Palace, and on her request near the Royal University of Fine Arts and we ended the walk in the park Sothearos St. around 6pm. Then we all decided to get some coffee, and instead of going to the nearest designer cafe, we opted to try out the Cambodian coffee at a coffee and burger place near the park. It took us a couple of minutes to give our orders to the waiter (my Khmer is really rusty..) but we managed to order a steaming cup of hot and brewed coffee for her and iced coffee milk for me. The verdict, yummy and cheap too! She says better than Starbucks espresso! We only spent about 6000 Riels or about $1.5.. I agree…

For dinner last Thursday we had her try the Cambodian roasted chicken found on the streets.. Goes for about 15,000 Riels, about $3 for the whole chicken, plus slices of cucumber and mint, and two kinds of sauce (sweet-sour-spicy and the salt-pepper mix).  This was really so good we ended up finishing a whole pot of rice hehe. Bad bad for those on the diet!

Friday morning we had to rush out for her interview with some company and afternoon we all had her try out Cambodia’s own ‘Subway’ sandwiches. And yeah she found it really really good, plus with the price of 3000-4000 Riels ($1) for the whole loaf filled with butter, mint, onion leaves, mixed sardines and pork sauce, and two kinds of pate filling in a crunchy French loaf, who wouldn’t fall for it?

She ended up liking it so much that yesterday afternoon, she bugged me to go walk to the market to buy some again.. So now I told her if you see a cart similar to this..

then she could have her fill. Last night we tried out (again.. the one on the streets..) ‘Mee Chaa’ or the fried noodles.. We went to Orussey Market around 8 pm and ate our fill of yummy fried noodles. Wow!  The whole plate just cost about 4000 Riels ($1) – all yellow noodles, with green veggies (they call it ‘katna’), lots of soft and chewy beef and topped with sauce and best eaten with chili sauce! Seriously, we could barely breathe with our tummies so full..

She has yet to the Khmer fruit smoothie – the ‘teuk kralok chek’. Maybe this afternoon. She says if this keeps going on she’ll be needing weight loss diet pills in no time. That’s not to say she’s complaining coz now were scheduled to have a hearty lunch again in my mother-in-law’s house. Yahooo! Home cooked Cambodian food again. =)

Eating @ Khmer-Thai Restaurant

A couple of days ago, we went to CityMall to do some Christmas shopping. It was really crowded coz there was this concert about to start at the Olympic Stadium which is right next to the mall. I guess those who were waiting for the concert to start figured its much better to wait out in the air-conditioned comforts of the mall.

We were done shopping around 7pm and the restos inside the mall were all jampacked. Both Hi-ace and me doesn’t like eating in crowded places and we were also craving for some Thai food that night. We found ourselves cruising around Tuol Tompoung Area for a new place to try and we first decided on going to Tonle Bassac, eat-all-you can Khmer/Thai food but it was full of dining Korean tourists and was too noisy. Then we saw this little restaurant right across Tonle Bassac along St. 163 right at the back of the gas station.

It’s smallish, with just a couple of tables downstairs and had a sign Khmer-Thai Restaurant. We’re both lovers of Khmer and Thai food so we decided to give this one a try..

We were in for a surprise! Though the place is small when you get in, they have a very spacious 2nd floor dining area, where you get to lounge around on cushy cushions and dine in leisure. Good ambiance, decor not too overboard like Khmer Surin..(Sorry photos are kinda blurry.. I just took them with a phone camera..) Chinks loved the cushions so much she kept bugging me to buy one like it the next day. She says it’ll be great while she’s watching cartoons..

They have a good menu, mostly Khmer and Thai favorites. We settled on Mixed Seafoods Salad, Morning Glory in Oyster Sauce,Fish Amok (we usually try out Amok in Khmer restos..), and Pad Thai. The verdict? I love the Mixed Seafoods Salad! I can’t seem to get enough of it. The Morning Glory in Oyster Sauce was good too as well as the Pad Thai Noodles. The Fish Amok, not the best but it was okay.

Mixed Seafoods Salad

Morning Glory aka Kangkong in Oyster Sauce

Pad Thai Noodles

Their version of Cambodian delicacy - Fish Amok

Another thing I liked about the place is that you can eat as much rice as you can and pay only $.25/person. Haha, obviously I eat a lot of rice.  They also have free pandan tea which is great coz you’ll surely be drinking lots of it to chase off the spicy flavors.

All in all it was a great dining experience for us. The prices are good, mains costs about $3-$8, and there’s a lot of space to sit, relax and enjoy the meal. And though there were other diners there, it was quiet and the seats arranged in a way that you still get your space and privacy.

Suffice it to say, well be back there again. I’ve already made a promise to try out all their salads =)

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Cambodia, Just Like Lotus Flowers

Quite common around Cambodia, the Lotus Flower is usually used to decorate homes and as offerings. Here, the locals usually fold the outer layers of the flower to reveal the inner layers of the flower. You can see lots of this flower being sold specially before offering days and when Khmers have to visit pagodas.

This flower is specially symbolic to Cambodian religion. The flower grows in muddy waters then rises above the surface and blooms into a extraordinary beauty. During nighttime the flower closes and sinks underwater and at dawn rises again.

That’s why it has been considered a symbol of awakening to the spiritual reality of life. Even the famous Cambodian monument, the Angkor Wat’s structure and several other temples are modeled after the blooming lotus flower.

For me, the lotus flower symbolizes Cambodia. It looks pretty ordinary closed up. In fact, when the bud is closed it looks downright uninteresting. But once it opens up and reveals the inner layers, its exotic and stunning. The same way, Cambodia is. At first glance, the landscape is dreary and dusty, its history tumultuous,  but look closer and you’ll find astonishing beauty. In its glorious monuments and temples, unspoilt landscapes, the fascinating Cambodia culture and its people.

Just like the lotus flower, Cambodia is a place you need to open up, expose the layers to reveal its real beauty.

Khmer Restaurant: Boat Noodles

I love Khmer food but I must admit I’m nowhere near good when it comes to cooking it. I’m always pressed for time and one characteristic of Khmer cuisine is the freshness of ingredients (and I don’t have time to go to the market daily..) and lots of spices that needs to be chopped/grated/minced etc.

So when I crave Khmer food, I either resort to the cooking of my nice mother-in-law who spoils us several times a week with her always delicious Khmer cooking. But I’m not that thick-skinned to eat at my in-laws house everytime though I know they would welcome it. So we usually head out and try out different Khmer restaurants around Phnom Penh.

One of our favorite Khmer Restaurants is Boat Noodles Phnom Penh. This homey restaurant is located in St. 294, near the Philippine Embassy. It’s menu features a lot of Khmer and Thai favorites. It’s hard to miss this place if you’re looking for it. The facade is full of potted plants, statuettes with a lot of cars and motos parked especially during lunch and dinner hours. It’s popular among locals, expats and tourists alike.

Why we love it? The menu is extensive, delicious and affordable. Mains usually goes for $2-3. A family meal for 3 would not go beyond $15. Another reason is the ambiance. It has the look and feel of a traditional Khmer house, wooden decor, Khmer silk, surrounded by lush plants and fishes swimming in small ponds. Their staff too is an asset, speaks English well and you can easily request to tone down the spiciness of some of the dishes. And the last reason we like eating in Boat Noodles Restaurant – their fried ice cream. Chewy crust filled with ice cream deep fried and drizzled with chocolate syrup and topped with cream and cherries. For some reason, Chinkee just loves it.

My favorites – spicy Khmer salad with beef and basil, green papaya salad and Cambodian fresh spring rolls. Hubby loves the tom yum soup best. If you’re visiting Phnom Penh and looking for affordable and authentic Khmer cuisine plus good ambiance, Boat Noodle Restaurant is worth the visit.

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Boat Noodles Phnom Penh

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My daughter Chinkee enjoying Boat Noodles.. Obviously she's full so she's staying still enough for a photo.

Techno-Savvy and Gadget Trendy Khmers

Seven years ago, when I told my brother that I was marrying my Cambodian boyfriend and we plan to live in Phnom Penh, he had this incredulous look in his face that just made me burst into laughter. Whhhatt??! Can we even call you on mobile?

My brother is a gadget-worshiper, a fashion-slave, a trend follower and for him Phnom Penh, being unheard of for decades is simply like being in exile. Some people could be really so naive and he still gets that incredulous look whenever I tell him Khmers are techno-savvy and really trendy when it comes to gadgets and they could easily be compared to their more affluent neighbors.

Perhaps so because Cambodia is a poor country and still on the path of development, that’s why people usually assume they don’t have the latest in gadgets and technology. But they couldn’t be more wrong. I’ve seen LCD TV’s here selling like hotcakes, there are mobile phone stores in almost every corner, shops with the latest laptops, computers,ipods,and every other conceivable gadget and gizmos can be easily found here. You’ll see teenagers and yuppies sporting über trendy PDA’s, the latest laptop models, iPhones. In fact, I love going shopping here for my gizmos coz they are much cheaper and I can easily cruise around looking for different choices.

Gee, even small internet shops here sports those flat screen monitors! Even when it comes to home appliances they all have the latest. No, they rarely use the box type airconditioners, they prefer those stylish split type aircons. Perhaps so because they have missed a lot. Like they didn’t get to enjoy the era of betamax, the black and white TV, the analog mobile phones etc so they jumped right up and they are enjoying the latest technology gadgetry.

Cambodian Crafts..

Cambodian are extremely artistic and even the Khmer Rouge era tried to eliminate culture and arts among the Khmers. The Khmer Rouge did destroy some of the most valuable Cambodian cultural artefacts, instruments, statues and a lot of artists have also perished during the KR regime and this has been a big setback for Cambodian culture and arts.

But creativity and artistry is innate in this race as its culture and arts are slowly seeing a revival. After all, this is the race that built the astoundingly beautiful Angkor Wat Temples. Khmers are particularly skilled when it comes to stone and wood sculpture and carving, silk weaving and silver crafting.

Shopping for artwork, silks and textiles, silver and woodworks is something one shouldn’t miss when you are here. Antiques and woodworks here are unique and well-crafted with evidences of mixed Chinese, French and Khmer influences.

There are also a growing number of art galleries in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap featuring works of up and coming Khmer artists.

As for silk and textiles, you can never get enough of the variety and exquisiteness of hand-woven silks in Cambodia. The most delicate silks in Asia can be found here..

Silver crafts are also worth looking at and the ones crafted here are mostly hand-carved. Woodcarving is also very popular with tourists as it has a rich tradition in Cambodia. From small souvenir items to beautiful furniture, you can have your fill of Khmer-style wood carved pieces here.

Khmer-Pajama Connection

When I first came here in Phnom Penh, one of the things I found amazing and strange is the penchant of Khmer ladies on wearing pajamas. You can see them everywhere all in different shades and prints. It is considered “normal” to wear them anywhere and everywhere. I love pajamas, but only here do I see them worn with much fervor outside of the house. And to top that, I’ve seen some who have no qualms about pairing pajamas with stilettos and full make-up!

Pajamas means “nightclothes, sleepwear or nightwear” and are usually worn just inside the house. If you’re an avid fashionista you might consider wearing pajamas to malls, markets, well just about everywhere as a fashion faux pas. Don’t think Khmer ladies are unaware of what pajamas are, they are. In fact, the word pajamas in Khmer literally translates to “sleep wear”.

I asked my niece why most ladies here are fond of wearing them, she said, it’s “comfortable and conservative”. Makes sense to me now. A lot of these ladies work and using skirts or tight jeans are simply a no-no for them. Pajama’s are loose and have elastic waistbands then they can move around and do as they please. Women here are also generally more conservative. They prefer long sleeved shirts and long skirts or pants and doesn’t really like showing too much skin. And besides, the weather here is hot and humid and since most pajamas are made of cotton so for Khmer ladies, they are perfect.

It takes time to get used to it and at first I thought it is simply hilarious, but then once I understood their reasons, I learned to appreciate it. Comfort is the main reason. Foreigners might find it amusing, but what’s to stop these Khmer ladies from being themselves and at ease with their pajamas?

I’ll let you on a secret too.. This intense liking for pajamas must be contagious.. I just bought myself several pairs of pajamas last week and to tell you the truth, it’s really so comfortable. Though I don’t wear them out of the house and I doubt if I’ll ever do, I can’t seriously fault the Khmer ladies for doing so. Who cares much about fashion, when you are utterly comfortable.

Cambodia, The Kingdom of Wonder…

Hmmn, I realized I’ve written some posts already about living in Cambodia but I have yet to write down some basic things you need to know about Cambodia. Most people conjure up images of Khmer Rouge, genocide and at times, Angkor Wat when the word Cambodia comes up.

But then, living here made me realize this country is awesome, unique and totally fascinating. And yes! There is more to Cambodia than just the Khmer Rouge and its horrible legacy. This country has a lot of natural beauty waiting to be explored, not only the magnificent Angkor Wat temples but its scenic countrysides, national parks, lovely beaches that is not “yet”so crowded, its cuisine, and its people. Cambodia has a lot to offer in terms of rich natural, cultural as well as historical heritage. It’s now also called the world’s newest and one of the most exotic travel destinations.

Here’s some basic facts about Cambodia:

Official Name: Kingdom of Cambodia.
Motto: Nation Religion King
Form of Government: Constitutional Monarchy
Capital City: Phnom Penh

Cambodia covers 181, 035 sq. km. It is located in Southeast Asia It is bordered by Laos on the northeast, Vietnam on the east and southwest, Thailand on the west and northwest and the Gulf of Thailand on the south.

Dominant features of Cambodia’s geography is the Mekong River as well as the Tonle Sap Lake. The Mekong one of Asia’s longest, flows from Tibet down to Laos, then to Cambodia, continuing to Southern Vietnam to the South China Sea. Because of this river, Cambodia has a very fertile agricultural lands. The Tonle Sap Lake is the largest lake in Southeast Asia and it is the main source of fish and irrigation for majority of Cambodia.

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Adjusting to Living in Cambodia

Moving to a new country requires one to undergo a lot of changes and adjust to it. Living here in Cambodia was not easy at first but we (daughter and me )  managed to adapt well. Looking back, the changes and challenges we have experienced really put a toll on me both physically and emotionally even if I was preparing for the move for quite sometime. I’m  well adjusted here already so I put this article together for those who are considering moving to Phnom Penh.

• Do some research before you go. It’s really a big help if you have an understanding of the Khmer culture. Adjusting to the place can be really difficult and stressful. When I say research, I mean an idea about the what types of food are available, what are main social do’s and dont’s.

• Be prepared for the changes. Psyche yourself up especially if you are making the move with your children. All routines will change and since you are unfamiliar with the place you are bound to make mistakes. Be prepared for being stressed and irritable. This could put a strain on your relationships. I remember my husband complaining I was always snapping at him ;P..

• Keep an open mind. At first, I developed a feeling of derision for all Cambodian things. Try to overcome this by acknowledging that it is natural. Spend some time mingling with the locals. Discover more about the culture. I found Cambodians to be naturally friendly and genuinely nice people.

• The language difference is another big adjustment. It is particularly difficult in moving around the city because majority of the people cannot speak English. Buying stuff in the markets also prove to be a challenge because of the language differences. Learn at least how to say hello, how to introduce yourself, how much, how to get there and here in Khmer. (I’m drafting a post on the basic Khmer, I promise to post that asap..)

• Food can be difficult particularly for those who are unused to eating Asian diet, which usually consists of rice, soup, fried meat mixed with vegetables, or fish. Don’t despair though, more and more supermarkets are opening up as well as Western fast food style restaurants around the city. Luckily both me and my daughter, being Pinoys, are rice eaters so the adjustment with regards to food was not much.

• The traffic as well as the transportation is another change. Moving around Phnom Penh has been a setback for us. People here usually go around with their own motorbikes or cars. If you don’t have your own transportation you can hire moto-dops, tuk-tuks or a taxi (which is t’lai or expensive) to bring you around. Negotiating the price with the drivers can be frustrating. Ask a local for the usual fares going to the places you frequent so you’ll have a bargaining ground.

• You will most definitely experience feelings of homesickness. I’ve somehow managed to keep homesickness at bay because I constantly keep in touch with my family and friends. Take advantage of the cheap international internet calls. You can find internet cafes offering VOIP services in almost all corners here in Phnom Penh. Calling to the US costs about 100 Riels/minute so you can chitchat for 40 minutes and pay only a dollar. The calling rates to other countries (about 200 Riels/minute for calls to the Philippines) vary but its still cheap so take advantage of this and stay constantly in touch with your family.

The transition period can be difficult but it is normal when you move to live in another country. Keep in mind that you are in a new place so don’t try to impose your own culture on others. You are in Cambodia, not in your country, so you have to adjust. That being said, do enjoy your stay and have a grand time in Phnom Penh.

Check out these interesting items about Phnom Penh…

I am “Bong”, he is “Monsieur”!@#

Cambodians resemble Filipinos a lot in terms of physical features and that is hardly surprising since were both South East Asians. I think the difference between the two is the way we clothe ourselves. The weather here is same as in the Philippines and it could get really hot but Khmers veer towards the conservative side, prefering long sleeved shirts and long pants while most Pinoys I know her prefer casual clothing as in shirts and shorts.

So when I am here in Phnom Penh I don’t really want to be stared at so I stay away from tank tops and short shorts and I go for short sleeved T-shirts and pedal shorts so I am usually mistaken for a Khmer as long as I don’t speak. I know a smattering of Khmer but still when I speak its with an accent and they can’t understand me.

My husband on the other hand, is  of Chinese descent but was born and raised here in Phnom Penh so he is often mistaken for a Chinese, Korean or a Japanese tourist.

The other day we went to Tuol Tom Poung Market and we found it both so funny that the sellers there keep calling me “Bong” which means elder sister or “ate” in Tagalog. When they see my husband they would say, “Monsieur, can we help you?”. And they would end up laughing when my husband would respond to them in fluent Khmer.

And those incidents happen not only in markets, when hubby is driving, he has been stopped by the police several times asking to check his license, believing him to be a foreigner.

In Angkor Wat, foreigners have to pay for a visitor pass (about $20) while Cambodian nationals and holders of K1 visa can go in for free. The last time we visited, they asked to check his visitor’s pass and they didn’t bother checking for mine thinking I was Khmer and he was the foreigner. The same thing happened when he went there with a Filipina friend.

We both find it so amusing and I guess I have to learn to speak the language so I could play the part really well.