Living in Phnom Penh: Warm and Friendly Khmers..

When we moved here in Phnom Penh, one of my biggest apprehensions was getting along with Khmers. What if they are not nice? What if I find them unapproachable or what if they find me obnoxious? What if I I don’t get along with any of them? I’m famous known among my friends to be aloof and could sometimes be brutally frank. People usually assume at first that I’m unfriendly and I just can’t help the way I am, I’m just not the type to let people close when I hardly know them at all. I’m far from those friendly, ‘social butterfly’ types of person. So, let’s just say, I was scared about how I would fare socially here.

I guess I let my crazy anxieties get the better of me, coz when I got here I was just proven wrong.  I found Khmers to be very friendly and warm. When we arrived I got along famously first with my nephews and nieces mainly because I could easily communicate with them in English. I remember our first day, Hi-ace’s niece set aside half her day so she could tour me around the market and help me buy the things I need. She had always been ready to help with everything.

Cutie Khmer kids..

Khmer ‘Ta’  (grandpa) manning a store..

My Khmer sister-in-law’s are also very very nice. It’s a pity I can only speak and understand a smattering of Khmer but they never left me out and go to some length using sign language to make me understand.

They are tactile sort too. They are touchy and don’t be surprised to see people holding hands even men! I remembered I was really surprised when a few days of knowing me, one of my sister in law walked around in a mall with me and it was just natural for her to hold my arm or drape her hands over my shoulders companionably. I wasn’t used to that, but I must confess I felt touched that she didn’t consider me strange enough to stay aloof from me.

(more…)

Thanks for hopping along again.. Please do subscribe to my blog's via RSS or Email and be regularly updated.

Living in Phnom Penh: Whirlwind Week

The whole week just breezed by and I’m seriously still disoriented  by the flurry of activities I was in. But then, if you ask me what have I been doing, I don’t really know. Haha this must really be a sign of aging. Not knowing what went on.. So, I had to do some heavy-duty thinking so I could actually remember what happened this week.

The whole week I had been so busy cramming! PUC where Hi-ace is teaching some classes changed their textbooks on one subject so every lesson had to be rewritten. Since hubby is super busy already (an understatement, we only see each other after 9 pm and Sundays hayyy!) so I volunteered to make his lessons plus the handouts. Crazy me! With lots of things I also have to do with my blogs, on top of the household chores and taking care of a husband and a daughter tasks, I had work up to my neck this week with barely a second to even brush my hair. So I had been cramming, cramming and till now I’m barely half-way with the lesson thing. Thank God, it’s Khmer New Year next week so I can have some more time to finish it.

Last Wednesday, Chinks woke up feverish. I decided to let her stay home to just rest. Thankfully, with lots of fluid and some fever medicine, her fever was gone the next day.

We also went eyeglasses shopping. Hehe not for me but for my sister-in-law. Glass frames here are so cheap and the place we went to has this big sale coz of the coming Khmer New Year. We got several glasses for $23 only per piece.

We also went ‘window shopping’  for some rattan furniture along Sothearos Blvd. I saw this huge ‘bucket-like’  day bed priced at $40 including the mattress. Good deal right? I’ll be getting that one probably next week after I’m done clearing some space in the house…

I have also been super busy blogging, crocheting, cooking, cleaning and jumping rope lol! More later..

Scenic Cambodian Countryside and a Visit to a Pagoda..

A few months back, Ma, my mother-in-law asked us if we wanted to go to a pagoda to get a monk’s blessings for the coming new year. Though, I am not Buddhist, I would usually come as a sign of respect and also so I could observe and learn closely their customs and traditions. After all, my husband is a Buddhist and its a big factor for both of us to understand each other’s religion.

Anyway, the trip promised to be scenic as the pagoda is located somewhere in Kampong Chhanang. The day started really early and at 6 am we were already on a tuk-tuk speeding towards Sisowath Quay near the riverside and going towards National Road No. 5. This was my first time to take a really long ride in a tuk-tuk. Ma and Hi-ace says its the best way to go, we get to enjoy the breeze and take in as much scenery as we want to. The price of the round trip ride on the tuk-tuk was unbelievably just $8!! I really am seriously in awe of Ma’s bargaining abilities.

So, it was me, Hi-ace, Chinks, our nieces Sokna and Cheng and Ma in the tuk-tuk.. The ride was really so enjoyable and I almost fell asleep being lulled by the wind and the not so bumpy ride. We had been traveling for about an hour when we turned left (lol! don’t ask me where..) towards a small market then onwards. The road became smaller and unpaved and both sides mostly lower with lots of water and some houses on stilts. We stopped for a bit to buy some lotus seeds (Ma and the nieces loves snacking on these..) and also some lotus flowers to offer in the pagoda.

The views were absolutely fantastic and so rural.. Then we reached a place with lots of cows being herded we turned right, then suddenly there was a bang! We had a flat tire and it was in the middle of nowhere, with nothing but the cows, ponds, lotus flowers and rice fields. The nice tuk-tuk driver told us to wait by the roadside and he’ll go look for a vulcanizing shop. So then, we proceeded to occupy ourselves by taking photos of ourselves and the stunning rural landscape.

(more…)

My Khmer Coffee Addiction

It’s a fact. I’m addicted to it. I can’t start a day without coffee and I usually have it a couple more times each day. When I first visited Phnom Penh last 2004, I was fretting and thinking that maybe I’ll be on a coffee-diet. Lol! I was really really wrong! I discovered that Cambodians are more than passionate about their morning cup. In fact, they have coffee anytime of the the day!

A few doors down my mother-in-laws house in Toul Tompoung area, there is a Khmer restaurant (corner resto St. 432 and 163) serving espressos and iced coffees at a fraction of the price of famous coffee houses. And the taste? Whew! One of the best brews I’ve ever had. Not only that, I was amazed to find out  that most of these local cafe’s roast their own local beans so you get freshly roasted coffee which, believe me has the best taste. Khmers prefer their beans roasted really black and adds a little fat or butter making the taste a lot richer. They would usually roast their beans every other day around 2-3 pm and just the aroma is heavenly!

So, though I still frequent nice cafes around Phnom Penh (I do enjoy their plush seats, free wifi, pastries..) but every so often you can find me sampling coffee from these small restaurants found all over Phnom Penh. These shops mostly speak very little English so come prepared and have this memorized (lol! I even have a small note always with me with Khmer translation of this just in case..)

• hot black coffee – caa-fei kh’mav (khdow -hot)
• coffee – caa-fei
• iced coffee – caa-fei teuk koh
• ice coffee milk – caa-fei teuk koh tuk duh koh

Khmer coffee is usually served hot – black or with milk / iced – black or with milk. There’s also a place inside Russian Market (Tuol Tompoung Market) serving what they claim to be the Best Iced Coffee in Phnom Penh. It does taste really good, and since there are a lot of tourists in the market they can speak English, so ordering a glass of iced coffee is a breeze.

It’s located right in the food hall, just look for the sign..

And to tempt those iced coffee lovers..

I’ve already shared this passion for Khmer coffee to some of my friends and also my sister. Ouwie is now also a certified Khmer coffee addict. Lol ! I can still remembered when she first tried it, she found it so good, she had too many glasses and found herself unable to sleep and was looking for natural sleep aids. So, though its tastes really good, just have it in moderation

Happy coffee drinking!

Phnom Penh Fun Finds: There’s a Mine!

Cambodia is the Land of Mines.. See I saw this sign in an internet shop here in Phnom Penh..

Lol! The ceiling was low and the sign was just a kind warning. I’ve now decided to be on the constant lookout for funny signs like this, uniquely Khmer!

(more…)

Ouwie’s Intro To Phnom Penh..

My siste, Ouwie arrived Wednesday evening from Manila. She’s planning on staying here for sometime, an extended vacation maybe and to also check out if she could work here.. Anyway, after she had a good night rest after arriving, we have all started orienting her to all things Khmer.

Living in Cambodia is quite easy and exciting too and now Ouwie is finding that out. We all consider it an everyday adventure just discovering things about Cambodia culture. So, Chinks have started teaching her some really basic Khmer language, like numbers, how to ask ‘how much’ etc..

We spent a good part of Thursday afternoon orienting her to the traffic and some landmarks around Phnom Penh. We went first to Tuol Tompoung Market to shop for some silk scarves and slippers then we walked around the Royal Palace, and on her request near the Royal University of Fine Arts and we ended the walk in the park Sothearos St. around 6pm. Then we all decided to get some coffee, and instead of going to the nearest designer cafe, we opted to try out the Cambodian coffee at a coffee and burger place near the park. It took us a couple of minutes to give our orders to the waiter (my Khmer is really rusty..) but we managed to order a steaming cup of hot and brewed coffee for her and iced coffee milk for me. The verdict, yummy and cheap too! She says better than Starbucks espresso! We only spent about 6000 Riels or about $1.5.. I agree…

For dinner last Thursday we had her try the Cambodian roasted chicken found on the streets.. Goes for about 15,000 Riels, about $3 for the whole chicken, plus slices of cucumber and mint, and two kinds of sauce (sweet-sour-spicy and the salt-pepper mix).  This was really so good we ended up finishing a whole pot of rice hehe. Bad bad for those on the diet!

Friday morning we had to rush out for her interview with some company and afternoon we all had her try out Cambodia’s own ‘Subway’ sandwiches. And yeah she found it really really good, plus with the price of 3000-4000 Riels ($1) for the whole loaf filled with butter, mint, onion leaves, mixed sardines and pork sauce, and two kinds of pate filling in a crunchy French loaf, who wouldn’t fall for it?

She ended up liking it so much that yesterday afternoon, she bugged me to go walk to the market to buy some again.. So now I told her if you see a cart similar to this..

then she could have her fill. Last night we tried out (again.. the one on the streets..) ‘Mee Chaa’ or the fried noodles.. We went to Orussey Market around 8 pm and ate our fill of yummy fried noodles. Wow!  The whole plate just cost about 4000 Riels ($1) – all yellow noodles, with green veggies (they call it ‘katna’), lots of soft and chewy beef and topped with sauce and best eaten with chili sauce! Seriously, we could barely breathe with our tummies so full..

She has yet to the Khmer fruit smoothie – the ‘teuk kralok chek’. Maybe this afternoon. She says if this keeps going on she’ll be needing weight loss diet pills in no time. That’s not to say she’s complaining coz now were scheduled to have a hearty lunch again in my mother-in-law’s house. Yahooo! Home cooked Cambodian food again. =)

Eating @ Khmer-Thai Restaurant

A couple of days ago, we went to CityMall to do some Christmas shopping. It was really crowded coz there was this concert about to start at the Olympic Stadium which is right next to the mall. I guess those who were waiting for the concert to start figured its much better to wait out in the air-conditioned comforts of the mall.

We were done shopping around 7pm and the restos inside the mall were all jampacked. Both Hi-ace and me doesn’t like eating in crowded places and we were also craving for some Thai food that night. We found ourselves cruising around Tuol Tompoung Area for a new place to try and we first decided on going to Tonle Bassac, eat-all-you can Khmer/Thai food but it was full of dining Korean tourists and was too noisy. Then we saw this little restaurant right across Tonle Bassac along St. 163 right at the back of the gas station.

It’s smallish, with just a couple of tables downstairs and had a sign Khmer-Thai Restaurant. We’re both lovers of Khmer and Thai food so we decided to give this one a try..

We were in for a surprise! Though the place is small when you get in, they have a very spacious 2nd floor dining area, where you get to lounge around on cushy cushions and dine in leisure. Good ambiance, decor not too overboard like Khmer Surin..(Sorry photos are kinda blurry.. I just took them with a phone camera..) Chinks loved the cushions so much she kept bugging me to buy one like it the next day. She says it’ll be great while she’s watching cartoons..

They have a good menu, mostly Khmer and Thai favorites. We settled on Mixed Seafoods Salad, Morning Glory in Oyster Sauce,Fish Amok (we usually try out Amok in Khmer restos..), and Pad Thai. The verdict? I love the Mixed Seafoods Salad! I can’t seem to get enough of it. The Morning Glory in Oyster Sauce was good too as well as the Pad Thai Noodles. The Fish Amok, not the best but it was okay.

Another thing I liked about the place is that you can eat as much rice as you can and pay only $.25/person. Haha, obviously I eat a lot of rice.  They also have free pandan tea which is great coz you’ll surely be drinking lots of it to chase off the spicy flavors.

All in all it was a great dining experience for us. The prices are good, mains costs about $3-$8, and there’s a lot of space to sit, relax and enjoy the meal. And though there were other diners there, it was quiet and the seats arranged in a way that you still get your space and privacy.

Suffice it to say, well be back there again. I’ve already made a promise to try out all their salads =)

View Larger Map

Cambodia, Just Like Lotus Flowers

Quite common around Cambodia, the Lotus Flower is usually used to decorate homes and as offerings. Here, the locals usually fold the outer layers of the flower to reveal the inner layers of the flower. You can see lots of this flower being sold specially before offering days and when Khmers have to visit pagodas.

This flower is specially symbolic to Cambodian religion. The flower grows in muddy waters then rises above the surface and blooms into a extraordinary beauty. During nighttime the flower closes and sinks underwater and at dawn rises again.

That’s why it has been considered a symbol of awakening to the spiritual reality of life. Even the famous Cambodian monument, the Angkor Wat’s structure and several other temples are modeled after the blooming lotus flower.

For me, the lotus flower symbolizes Cambodia. It looks pretty ordinary closed up. In fact, when the bud is closed it looks downright uninteresting. But once it opens up and reveals the inner layers, its exotic and stunning. The same way, Cambodia is. At first glance, the landscape is dreary and dusty, its history tumultuous,  but look closer and you’ll find astonishing beauty. In its glorious monuments and temples, unspoilt landscapes, the fascinating Cambodia culture and its people.

Just like the lotus flower, Cambodia is a place you need to open up, expose the layers to reveal its real beauty.